Freshwater Aquarium Fish: 15 Hardy Choices + First 48 Hours
Starting your first aquarium is an amazing experience, but choosing your first inhabitants can feel a little overwhelming. You want beautiful, active, and interesting freshwater aquarium fish, but more than anything, you want them to thrive. That’s where “hardy” fish come in. But let’s be clear: hardy doesn’t mean indestructible. It means these fish are more forgiving of the small mistakes beginners often make.
The best choices for beginners often include colorful Guppies; active schooling fish like Tetras and Barbs; fascinating bottom-dwellers like Corydoras Catfish and Plecos; and even certain beginner-friendly Cichlids and Gouramis for those looking for a centerpiece fish.
Even the toughest fish need a good start. The real key to success is a stable environment, especially during the crucial first 48 hours. This guide will walk you through 15 of the best species available in our store and provide a simple checklist for those first two days: from slow acclimation and low light to proper feeding and water testing.
15 Hardy Aquarium Fish for Beginners (and Beyond)
Here are 15 reliable and rewarding fish, all available at The iFish Store, to start your journey with.
Classic Community Fish
1. Guppy (Poecilia reticulata)
The quintessential beginner fish. Guppies are a whirlwind of color and activity. As livebearers, they give birth to tiny, free-swimming fry, which is fascinating to watch.
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Temperament: Peaceful and social. Keep in groups of 3+ with more females than males.
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Care Level: Very Easy. They are adaptable and eat almost any prepared fish food.
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Pros: Incredibly colorful, always active, easy to breed.
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Cons: Can overpopulate a tank quickly without a plan for the fry.
2. Cherry Barb (Pethia titteya)
One of the most peaceful Barbs you can find. While many barbs can be nippy, the Cherry Barb is a model citizen. Males develop a stunning, deep-red color to impress females.
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Temperament: Peaceful. Keep in a group of 6+ to see their best behavior and color.
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Care Level: Easy. They appreciate a planted tank with some hiding spots.
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Pros: Peaceful for a barb, beautiful red coloration in males.
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Cons: Can be a bit shy if not kept in a large enough school.
3. Black Neon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi)
More robust than the classic Neon Tetra, the Black Neon is an excellent and hardy choice. Their crisp black and white stripes stand out beautifully against green plants.
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Temperament: Peaceful schooling fish. Keep in a group of 8+.
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Care Level: Easy. Very adaptable and a perfect community citizen.
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Pros: Hardier than standard Neons, striking contrast, very peaceful.
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Cons: Must be in a school to feel secure and show their best colors.
4. Rummy Nose Tetra (Hemigrammus rhodostomus)
A stunning schooling fish known for its bright red nose and striped tail. They are fantastic "indicator fish"—their red nose will fade if water quality is poor, telling you it's time for a water change.
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Temperament: Peaceful schooling fish. Keep in a group of 6+.
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Care Level: Easy to Intermediate. They are hardy but sensitive to poor water conditions.
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Pros: Beautiful, active schoolers, excellent water quality indicators.
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Cons: Less tolerant of uncycled or unstable tanks than other fish on this list.
5. Dwarf Neon Rainbow Fish (Melanotaenia praecox)
These fish shimmer with an electric blue iridescence. They are active, hardy, and a great introduction to the world of Rainbow Fish.
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Temperament: Peaceful and very active. Keep in a school of 6+.
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Care Level: Easy. They need a tank with a secure lid as they are known to jump.
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Pros: Incredibly vibrant, active swimmers, generally very healthy.
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Cons: Males can be boisterous when chasing females, so a group is necessary.
Fascinating Bottom-Dwellers
6. Corydoras Catfish (Corydoras sp.)
No community tank is complete without a school of these adorable, armored catfish. They are tireless bottom-dwellers, constantly sifting through the substrate for leftover food.
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Temperament: Extremely peaceful. Keep in a group of 6+.
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Care Level: Easy. Must be kept on a soft substrate like sand to protect their delicate barbels.
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Pros: Great cleanup crew, full of personality, very peaceful.
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Cons: Needs a smooth substrate; sharp gravel can injure them.
7. Bristlenose Pleco (Ancistrus sp.)
Unlike the Common Pleco that grows to an enormous size, the Bristlenose stays a manageable 4-5 inches. It's a workhorse algae-eater, perfect for most community tanks.
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Temperament: Peaceful, but can be territorial with other plecos.
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Care Level: Easy. Requires driftwood to rasp on for its digestive health.
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Pros: Excellent algae eater, stays a reasonable size for most aquariums.
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Cons: Can be reclusive and nocturnal; you may not see it often.
8. Kuhli Loach (Pangio khulii)
These eel-like, nocturnal scavengers are shy but fascinating additions. They are experts at squeezing into tiny spaces and cleaning up food that other fish miss.
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Temperament: Very peaceful and shy. Keep in a group of 5+.
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Care Level: Easy. They need a soft, sandy substrate to burrow in.
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Pros: Unique appearance, excellent scavengers, peaceful.
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Cons: Nocturnal and shy, so you might not see them frequently.
9. Nerite Snail (Neritina natalensis)
The perfect algae-eating invertebrate. Nerite snails are relentless in cleaning glass, rocks, and plants, and they cannot reproduce in freshwater, so you won't have a snail explosion.
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Temperament: Completely peaceful.
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Care Level: Very Easy. Just ensure they have algae or an algae wafer to eat.
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Pros: One of the best algae eaters, won't overpopulate your tank.
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Cons: May lay small white eggs that can be tough to remove (but won't hatch).
Centerpiece Fish (With Personality)
10. Honey Gourami (Trichogaster chuna)
Looking for a gentle centerpiece fish? The Honey Gourami is perfect. They are curious and intelligent, exploring the tank with their long, thread-like feelers.
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Temperament: Very peaceful. One of the best centerpiece fish for a community tank.
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Care Level: Easy. Appreciates floating plants to provide cover.
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Pros: Peaceful, intelligent, beautiful golden color.
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Cons: Can be shy; avoid keeping with fast, aggressive fish.
11. Dwarf Gourami (Trichogaster lalius)
Slightly bolder and more brilliantly colored than the Honey Gourami, the Dwarf Gourami is a classic centerpiece. Males have stunning vertical red and blue stripes.
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Temperament: Generally peaceful, but males can be territorial with each other.
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Care Level: Easy to Intermediate. Can be prone to certain diseases, so clean water is a must.
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Pros: Stunning colors, engaging personality.
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Cons: Best to keep only one male per tank to avoid aggression.
12. Bolivian Ram (Mikrogeophagus altispinosus)
A great entry into the world of Cichlids. Bolivian Rams are more peaceful and hardier than many of their cousins. They have subtle but beautiful colors and a ton of personality.
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Temperament: Peaceful for a cichlid. Can be kept in pairs.
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Care Level: Intermediate. They require a mature, stable tank with clean water.
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Pros: Lots of personality, relatively peaceful, a great "first cichlid."
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Cons: Not suitable for a brand new, uncycled tank.
13. Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare)
The iconic, graceful Angelfish is a dream fish for many. While not a day-one beginner fish, they are a perfect "next step" for someone who has mastered a basic community tank.
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Temperament: Semi-aggressive. Can become territorial, especially when pairing off to breed.
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Care Level: Intermediate. Requires a tall tank (29 gallons or more) and should not be kept with very small fish (like neon tetras) that they might eat.
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Pros: Majestic and graceful, a true showpiece fish.
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Cons: Needs a large, tall tank; will eat any fish that can fit in its mouth.
14. Yellow Lab Cichlid (Labidochromis caeruleus)
If you dream of a vibrant, active African Cichlid tank, this is the place to start. Yellow Labs are among the least aggressive of the Mbuna cichlids.
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Temperament: Semi-aggressive. Must be kept with other African Cichlids.
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Care Level: Intermediate. Requires hard, alkaline water (high pH) and a tank with lots of rockwork.
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Pros: Brilliant yellow color, very active and hardy.
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Cons: Cannot be kept in a standard community tank; requires a species-specific setup.
15. Discus (Symphysodon aequifasciatus)
Known as the "King of the Aquarium," Discus are for the dedicated hobbyist. We include them here not as a beginner fish, but as something to aspire to.
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Temperament: Peaceful but shy.
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Care Level: Advanced. Requires pristine, very soft, and very warm water (82-86°F) with frequent, large water changes.
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Pros: Unbelievably beautiful and majestic. The ultimate freshwater showpiece.
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Cons: Very demanding and unforgiving of mistakes in water quality or diet.
Quick Parameters by Species
|
Fish |
Size |
Temp (°F) |
pH Range |
Min. Group |
Min. Tank |
|
Guppy |
2" |
72-79 |
6.8-7.8 |
3+ |
10 gal |
|
Cherry Barb |
2" |
73-79 |
6.0-7.0 |
6+ |
20 gal |
|
R. Nose Tetra |
2" |
75-81 |
5.5-7.0 |
6+ |
20 gal |
|
Rainbow Fish |
3" |
74-78 |
6.5-7.5 |
6+ |
30 gal |
|
Corydoras |
2-3" |
72-79 |
6.0-7.5 |
6+ |
20 gal |
|
B. Pleco |
4-5" |
73-80 |
6.5-7.5 |
1 |
30 gal |
|
Kuhli Loach |
3-4" |
75-82 |
5.5-6.5 |
5+ |
20 gal |
|
H. Gourami |
2" |
74-80 |
6.0-7.5 |
1-3 |
20 gal |
|
Bolivian Ram |
3" |
74-79 |
6.0-7.4 |
1-2 |
20 gal |
|
Angelfish |
6" L, 8" H |
76-82 |
6.5-7.5 |
1-5 |
29 gal (Tall) |
|
Yellow Lab |
4" |
76-82 |
7.8-8.6 |
5+ |
40 gal |
Your First 48 Hours With New Fish: A Simple Checklist
This is the most critical period. Your goal is to minimize stress and keep the water pristine as your tank's biological filter adjusts.
The First 48 Hours: At a Glance
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Hour 0-2: Acclimate slowly (float, then drip).
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Hour 2-24: Keep lights low. Add beneficial bacteria. Test for ammonia/nitrite. Feed very little, if at all.
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Hour 24-48: Test again. Feed lightly. Perform a water change if ammonia is >0.25 ppm. Watch for signs of stress.
Before You Bring Them Home
Ideally, your new fish are going into a tank that has already completed the nitrogen cycle. Have your supplies ready: a heater set to the correct temperature, a running filter, a thermometer, a liquid ammonia and nitrite test kit, and a good water conditioner.
Hour 0–2: Acclimation is Key
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Dim the Lights: Turn off your aquarium light. A dark environment is less stressful.
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Float the Bag: Float the sealed bag in your tank for 15-20 minutes to equalize water temperature.
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Add Tank Water: Open the bag and add about a quarter-cup of your tank water to it. Repeat this every 10 minutes for 30-45 minutes to slowly adjust them to your water's pH and hardness.
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Net, Don't Pour: Gently net the fish out and release them into your tank. Discard the bag water.
Hour 2–24: Settle In and Test
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Lights Low: Keep the aquarium light off for at least a few hours.
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Dose Bacteria: Add a dose of bottled beneficial bacteria to help the filter process waste.
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Feed Lightly (or Not at All): Offer a tiny pinch of food after 8-12 hours. Don't worry if they ignore it.
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Test the Water: Before you go to bed, test for ammonia and nitrite.
Hour 24–48: The Observation Period
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Test Again: Test for ammonia and nitrite first thing. If ammonia is at or above 0.25 ppm, do a 25-40% water change.
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Observe Behavior: Watch for signs of stress like hiding, gasping, or clamped fins.
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Feed Lightly: Offer one or two very small feedings.
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Hold Off on More Fish: Don't add more fish until ammonia and nitrite have been stable at zero for at least a week.
Ready to start your aquarium journey? We're here to help you succeed.
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Where to Buy Fish Near Me in Richmond Hill, NY!
Ready to buy fish online? You're in the right place. We offer an incredible selection with top-tier shipping standards. And if you're in the New York City area, we invite you to come visit our store in person!
Whether you shop online or stop by, you'll get the same healthy, high-quality fish and expert advice. We offer fast overnight delivery to the five boroughs, the Tri-State area, and across the country.
Visit us at 89-43 127th Street, Richmond Hill, N.Y. 11418. Have questions? Feel free to reach out via email at info@theifishstore.com or give us a call at 516.524.6423. We're here to help you create a thriving aquatic environment!
Frequently Asked Questions
How many fish should I start a new tank with?
Start with a small group, about 25-40% of your tank's final planned capacity. For a 30-gallon tank, this might mean one school of 6 Cherry Barbs. Add your next group after 1-2 weeks of stable, zero-ammonia readings.
Do all these fish need a heater?
Yes, all the tropical fish on this list require a stable temperature, typically between 75-82°F (24–28°C), to thrive. Discus require even higher temperatures.
Can I mix Cichlids with fish like Tetras and Guppies?
Generally, no. African Cichlids require very different water chemistry (high pH) and are too aggressive. While some smaller South American Cichlids like Bolivian Rams can sometimes work with larger, faster Tetras, it's safest to plan your tank around one type of community. Angelfish, for example, will often eat small fish like Neon Tetras.
How much should I feed my new fish?
Very little in the first 48 hours. After that, feed tiny portions that can be completely consumed in 60-90 seconds, once or twice a day. It's far easier to underfeed than to overfeed.
Is a quarantine tank really necessary?
For your very first fish, your main tank is the quarantine tank. But for every fish you add after that, a separate 2-4 week quarantine is the single best way to prevent introducing disease to your established community.